What Type of Sand/Mixture Should I Level With?

Probably the most heated debate among warm-season grass fanatics. Also, the one with the most misinformation and assumptions floating around. Let's set the record straight with the facts and the science behind soil makeup.

Unfortunately, a lot of that bad information can come from well-intentioned suppliers or service providers. "We only use masonry because X", "Mixtures are the best because Y", "Riversand particle size provides Z". The truth is, if anyone pushes one and only one leveling agent, they probably do not have a good understanding of why they are promoting what they are promoting.

Let's start with the bad news...

This is a perfectly crafted field, built in ideal conditions, with ideal materials.

This is your yard. Probably under a tree.

Whats the problem?

To understand why this matters, it is important to talk about soil makeup. All soil on the planet can be broken into some ratio of clay, silt, and sand (we will come back to organic matter). These three terms purely represent particle size. Nothing more.

Clay Soil (Smallest Particles)

• Nutrient Storage: High cation exchange capacity (CEC), meaning it holds nutrients, preventing them from leaching away (if your roots can get to them!)

• Water Retention: While clay holds more water than sand, it binds it with strong negative forces, meaning some water is held too tightly for plant roots to access. When clay is too compact or waterlogged, it can also create pooling surface water.

• Anchorage: Provides a firm, dense foundation for roots to securely grip.

Silt Soil (Medium Particles)

• Fertility: Very fertile with a high capacity to hold onto nutrients, supporting strong plant growth.

• Moisture Management: Holds moisture well while offering better aeration than clay.

Sand Soil (Largest Particles)

• Drainage: Excellent drainage, which prevents root rot and waterlogging.

• Aeration: High porosity allows oxygen to reach roots easily.

• Root Growth: Provides a loose, warm environment that encourages deep root penetration.

So...If a perfectly built base starts with large gravel, graduating to fine sand and topsoil, what are you to do about your 100% clay content?? Well, you introduce the largest particle size possible, which can still work its way down through your root system.

1. Screened River Sand

This means you should almost ALWAYS use River sand if you are:

1) A first time leveler

2) Have extremely compact soil

3) Very large depressions (keep deep corrections porous until they are brought up)

I once had a customer tell me that they were told the coarseness of river sand would inhibit root growth. Here is that grain of sand next to a root. Moving along...

2. Masonry Sand

So when should you start using Masonry Sand? Once proper drainage is established and you are fine-tuning purely the leveling aspect. Masonry sand will continue to improve drainage, relative to your clay, but you always want to start with the largest particle size at the bottom. Remember, we are having to work backwards.

Masonry Sand is great for people who:

1) are already happy with their soil condition and drainage

2) are likely already reel mowing or maintaining under 1" HOC (meaning they are making small adjustments, not gross corrections).

Unfortunately, most people move to masonry sand way too quickly, because it looks and feels like the USGA sand at their golf course or they see Instagramers and YouTubers using it on their already perfect yards.

A lot of reel mowers avoid river sand, as the coarseness of the sand can dull blades more quickly, which is a fair concern. I would also say, just sharpen your blades! You should be doing this regularly anyway. Annually at a minimum. Keep in mind as well, this is a non-issue once the lawn has recovered and the stolons have migrated to the surface of the sand, holding everything in place.

It is equally as important to know your supplier and their quality. Remember, you are using river sand, not river rocks. Perfect yards aren't cheap or easy!

Finally...what about sand and compost mixtures? Well, there is nothing inherently bad about the size of compost material. The problem is that it is not a leveling agent. Organic matter will break down over time and lose its leveling effect.

Organic matter is actually incredibly beneficial to your plant and soil's longterm health. I typically recommend that compost top dressing be done as a separate application. Proper fertilization will also accomplish the same thing in a shorter amount of time, so it really depends on your program.

Sand/Compost Mixtures should usually be reserved for masonry users, where leveling is a non-issue. The juxtaposition here is that people using masonry for the right reasons, typically will avoid compost (for the same reel reasons), especially as it will sit on the lawn and degrade over longer periods. These users also typically have healthy soil and are fine-tuning their chemical programming as well.

Alternatively, there are Engineered Soil Conditioners, that contain live microbiomes, and can be introduced to the soil, to aid in long-term soil breakdown and composting. This is a much finer material and can be better for mixing, but will still have a much greater impact when done separately, as a supporting process/additive.

Ultimately, Level Lawns possesses the expertise to evaluate and recommend the best materials for your needs. We collaborate with a range of vetted material manufacturers to guarantee that only the highest quality is used in completing your project, helping you achieve your lawn goals.

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